I am reacting to an article on Thermogène© published by Retronews to briefly discuss a particular sensation which is not often highlighted, although it has its raison d'être in cosmetology: skin that …
In the footsteps of DIY.
As I reviewed this text published in our newsletter, I thought it should be part of our main articles, because it illustrates practices regularly discussed. Do-it-yourself, or DIY, continues to …
The Deodorant story
This product category is one of the oldest in modern cosmetics. It emerged mainly due to the development of hygienism in the late 19th century. Let’s take a look back at the history of a modern …
The “aging odor” or nonenal effect
Non-2-enal is an unsaturated aldehyde. It is a colorless liquid largely responsible for the flavor of aged beer and buckwheat. The characterization of this substance in the skin of elderly people will …
Epigenetic’s and cosmetics
New concepts emergence in cosmetics is not always a guarantee of sustainability. Many ideas, based more or less on scientific advances, are regularly proposed. Some of them impose themselves as new …
Meta-sensoriality!
The role of La Cosmétothèque does not consist in making forecasts. But we can put forward the emergence of new facts or trends that might make history and to which we might make reference later, …
Chanel still N°1
The legendary fashion house has just introduced a new line of beauty products. Baptized Chanel N ° 1. The brand reconnects with its history in the beauty world. Indeed, when the brand returned to …
The shaving art
You all know the term “hipster”. Until recently, it was used to refer to not-so-new a practice – now it corresponds to a particular trend. Plus, it often described the young bearded men that brought …
Liquid cerates
Just like for many other things, we tend to like and forget certain formulation technologies. Let’s focus on the example of cerates. This term comes from the Latin word ceratus: according to …
Volatile oils 2: will or opportunity?
In a recent article, we were mentioned about the interest that a particular ingredient has in relation to its properties: isododecane. Isododecane is a low molecular weight isoparraffin (170) which …
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Nourishing Creams
As a professional, like me, you must have met people who talked to you about “nourishing creams”. It is quite a common, even ordinary term. But every time you need to describe what it refers to, maybe …
Les Cosmétolégumes®
As what we call “cosmetofood” is back in the spotlight, most of you must have never heard this rather odd term: “Cosmetolégumes” (“cosmetoveggies”). And yet, it refers to an interesting project which …
Boric acid and Bore derivatives
By following this link you will find an interesting development made by Laurence Coiffard and Céline Couteau on a particular ingredient, the boric acid. Long used in many preparations, it is one of …
“Volatile” oils in cosmetic formulas
The term “volatile oil” may sound a little odd, but it is probably the one that best designates a particular type of ingredients in formulation. Why odd? Because the notion of oil is rarely associated …
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Back to basics
It is customary to say that the best jams or soups are made in old jars. The adage can also be applied to areas other than jams! I gladly take the title of a recent article from Expression …
Tragacanth
Gum tragacanth, like some others natural gum, has been somewhat forgotten. Back to this interesting ingredient. Gum tragacanth, also called dragon gum, is an exudate obtained from the dried …
Up cycling.
This term refers to an approach which has recently gained much ground in our trades. Lavoisier told us that “nothing is lost, nothing is created; everything is transformed”! This aphorism is …
History of Squalane, vegetable or not!
The so-called vegetable squalane is regularly presented as a major advance. What is the origin of this ingredient? François Laserson tells us the story of squalane. François has an extensive …
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Deadly kisses
Beauty has made considerable progress as regards cosmetics safety of use. Although some people keep pretending that certain ingredients are problematic, while it is not scientifically based on the …
Nylon, not only for stockings!
The news recently focused on microplastics and their environmental impact. This triggered an awareness campaign about what these substances could be used for in cosmetics and about their effects on …
A precious cosmetic
After gemmology, let’s take another look at “gemmology”, or rather “lithotherapy”!! Indeed, if these two terms are identical, they do describe very different approaches. They are derived from a Latin …
Making new skin : the cosmetic peeling.
Cosmetic peeling is a famous mechanism of action intended for improving the quality of the skin surface. It relies on a well-known skin feature: the continuous renewal of the epidermis and its …
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Cult product : DDML
Cult products are products that have marked the history of a product category or a brand, or that have installed new concepts or new gestures of use in the long term. It is normal to do them justice …
The formulation masters.
Every day God gives comes with a series of new launches invariably introduced as radical innovations. Still, the products will long remain at the core of the problem. And the question is: how to keep …
Aromacosmetics
What hides behind this term? It actually refers to an original approach to cosmetic product perfuming. After a period when perfumes were widely disparaged, which led to the development of …
Foundation in 2018
A recent publication provides information on the top 5 best-selling foundations in 2018. Often regarded as determining, the commercial success is synonymous with quality. One question arises …
Cetyl alcohol
Fatty alcohols are valuable ingredients in the formulators toolbox. Let's take a closer look at the case of cetyl alcohol. Cetyl alcohol belongs to the large family of fatty alcohols, these …
Master Chefs are back
If the "masters" formulators were the way of the future? When I talk to different people, it seems obvious to me that our trades are in a slump. The two fields in which something might actually be …




























