The cosmetics industry is like many others in perpetual motion. And as usual, one event chases another. It's always time to remember. This is what François Canac offers us in this small series of …
Expanscience
"I'm talking to you about a time that under 20s can't know." So begins a famous French song. Expanscience brilliantly reminds us of this. Indeed, this organization celebrates its 7O spring and we …
Mechanics to help the skin.
Many still doubt that instrumental beauty is anything else than current affairs. But new evidence is emerging to demonstrate its interest. Mechanical stimulation of the skin and its positive …
Boric acid and Bore derivatives
By following this link you will find an interesting development made by Laurence Coiffard and Céline Couteau on a particular ingredient, the boric acid. Long used in many preparations, it is one of …
Seeing skin through rose-coloured glasses
I decided to write this mood note as I was listening to a show called “La Méthode Scientifique” on the French radio. At first, I was only half listening, but then I paid more attention and even …
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Back to basics
It is customary to say that the best jams or soups are made in old jars. The adage can also be applied to areas other than jams! I gladly take the title of a recent article from Expression …
The collagen
This protein occupies a central place, not only in the dermis where it plays an essential role, but also in communication and in many storytelling. I am pleased to relay an excellent article not …
The invention of tanning.
Was tanning invented? We owe this approach to Pascal Ory. The definition of tanning would be: "how to cover the skin with a layer comparable to bronze?" ! The phenomenon of tanning has become very …
Chemistry and beauty
Chemistry is one of the central disciplines of the Cosmetics industries. Beyond the major contributions that come to us from chemistry such as lipochemistry, dye chemistry, synthetic chemistry in …
Better than CBD!
CBD is the ingredient we talk about, not just in city salons. Almost everyone is working on this question, without asking too much regarding the question of the regulatory future of the "thing". …
Tragacanth
Gum tragacanth, like some others natural gum, has been somewhat forgotten. Back to this interesting ingredient. Gum tragacanth, also called dragon gum, is an exudate obtained from the dried …
The DORIN House
The big "perfume factories" as some call them, have played a decisive role in the industrialization of the perfume and beauty business. Those of beauty are a little more recent than perfumery, and …
Cosmetofood
COVID unfortunately led to the cancellation of the U'Cos 2020 conference which was to be held in Guingamp in March 2020 on the theme of Cosmetofood. Jean Claude LE JOLIFF was invited to give the …
Deadly kisses
Beauty has made considerable progress as regards cosmetics safety of use. Although some people keep pretending that certain ingredients are problematic, while it is not scientifically based on the …
Spotlight on a bacteria from the Swiss glaciers.
Fatigue is one of the most easily factors which can be read on the face. When you are young, recovery capacities are important and a few quieter nights can restore a fresh complexion and good looks. …
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Guerlain’s skin care inside.
Many hypotheses illustrate the business life in our trades. One of them leads to the classification of brands according to different criteria. Some consider that there are brands naturally associated …
L’Oreal seen from inside
What could be simpler than visiting a company under the leadership of its CEO, the oldest collaborator as he defines himself: "I was the youngest manager and I am probably the oldest now". Lets read …
2020’s Prix d’Excellence
The cosmetic industry, like many others, regularly sacrifices to a practice which consists in rewarding what one believes to be the best. There are now a large number of these ceremonies where we …
La Peaulogie
We want to draw your attention to a new journal that you may have already visited. This is "La Peaulogie". This excellent journal allows you to consult these issues online on various and varied …
“Futuristic” cosmetic
One of the goal of the Cosmétothèque is to identify new concepts or approaches offering a new look. In this content, you will discover an amazing proposal, personalization based on PRP. What is …
The mercury time
Mercury is a metal with multiple properties, but in cosmetics it is not very welcome, so far. Although it has been used for a very long time, it is nowadays banned in the majority of countries. Its …
Cult product : DDML
Cult products are products that have marked the history of a product category or a brand, or that have installed new concepts or new gestures of use in the long term. It is normal to do them justice …
Long live collectors
Collectors play an important role in the conservation of know-how through their passion for objects specific to certain periods or categories of products. Groupies of perfume bottles know this very …
Hot Shaving
The Gillette heated razor is an opportunity to remember that hot shaving is a very common practice, having even been the subject of specific developments, not only devices but also products. A …
Suresnes, the Beauty and Perfume city.
As an old citizen from Suresnes, I could not ignore the fact that this city has hosted some very nice companies of beauty and perfume. Beyond the big house Coty, which in the early twentieth century …
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Mister Sabetay
In our time, we could have called him "Monsieur Sébastien" to designate Mr. Sabetay, a great name in the cosmetics industry. A long career for one of the first "Doctor" of our field. François …
Electronic MakeUp
A real breakthrough. If we are going to tell the story of technologies or things of the same order, greet the birth of some is also part of our approach. Today we welcome the emergence of what …
Foundation in 2018
A recent publication provides information on the top 5 best-selling foundations in 2018. Often regarded as determining, the commercial success is synonymous with quality. One question arises …
Cetyl alcohol
Fatty alcohols are valuable ingredients in the formulators toolbox. Let's take a closer look at the case of cetyl alcohol. Cetyl alcohol belongs to the large family of fatty alcohols, these …
From the foam.
The Cosmétothèque mission statement is not to promote new ingredients, but to bring to the attention of as many people as possible the sources of progress on the technical field and the scientific …
Sunflower Oil
Sunflower oil is an ingredient widely used in cosmetics. Let's make an up date on this ingredient. Long ignored in cosmetic forms, sunflower oil is now a permanent success. But unlike other …
SOD what is that.
Thanks to Celine Couteau to propose an up date on this molecule which has been trendy in the 90s. …
Paraben are safe
Many experts were convinced, but the media and incompetent and intolerant observers continued to doubt it. Will the CLR opinion allow to rehabilitate this class that no one could replace? To be …
The Matrixyl™, a mythical ingredient.
Matrixyl™ has a special place among key cosmetic ingredients. Here is its story. Today, peptides have a special place in the world of cosmetic ingredients. The concept of “bioactive” peptides …
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Autophagy for a perfect skin tone
Autophagy is a biological mechanism not well known because its complexity, but playing an essential role in the process of tissue homeostasis. Therefore it is particularly interesting in cosmetic. …
The sensory assessment.
Sensory analysis is still under discussion. Proposed more than 20 years ago in our business, sensory analysis has had various fortunes. Sometimes very used, it gradually integrated the development …
Coral is getting white!
This issue, which has been widely discussed for some time now, is still relevant today. This article offers an interesting update and no or little controversy and made by someone who is what he is …
The secrets belong active ingredient developpement: the LR2412
We regularly questionning how new "actives" are developed in the cosmetic industry. Here is the story of the LR2412 as L'Oreal tells it. As a gift, the results of an original study on this …
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Making her self Up
The Frida Kahlo's beauty products. Magdalena Frida Carmen Kahlo Calderón, known as Frida Kahlo, was born on July 6, 1907 in a territorial demarcation of the present federative entity of Ciudad de …
Active ingredients past and present
Back on an article made for Expression Cosmétique which remains perfectly topical. The concept of active ingredient is central in cosmetics, although it can be discussed in some aspects. A return …
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The storied pasts of the beauty brands you love.
Over the years, only certain brands and products have managed to attain legendary status, first for capturing the needs of the time and then for nimbly keeping pace as those needs changed. We reveal …
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Optics help cosmetics science
These technics, which are strange for us, are more than useful. In a recent publication, Régine Frick on behalf of Premium Beauty, highlights the benefits of taking an interest in optical phenomena …
In Cosmetics Amsterdam 2018 awards
As every year, coming back the award season for our pleasure. In-Cosmetics has awarded industry at the Amsterdam show and here is the list, as always for the Cosmétothèque, not to plebiscite any …
Philocomes, an unique product in the world
Do you know what the Philocomes are? In a recent contribution, lets discover with our friends from Nantes University a preparation that has disappeared today, but which has been successful and …
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Travel under the skin
Going skin deep to explore what causes wrinkles Three dimensional of skin wrinkled In this recent contribution, a research group from the University of Southampton and the University of Cape Town, …
An eternal comeback
The news is in full swing and the themes are numerous. Among them, these is one that is starting to become dominant: the microbiome, through its protection, its restoration or what so ever. The …
The ultimate customized cream
More and more brands are settling on the niche of customized cream with performance qualities very different from each other. It is feared that the final consumer will have a lot of …
Solar nail
A new device at your fingertips will allow to measure your sun exposure. We had already had at first a pseudo jewelry hanging on neck or as a watch, June, then a children's bracelet (Beiersdorf), …
Do nail polishes turn to green ?
The "Mamamouchi" * nail enamel? For several months, we have seen an almost uninterrupted succession of articles and papers on the idea that nail enamel would be subject to a great upheaval that …
