In a recent publication in their blog, our friends from Nantes offer an interesting point on a substance a little ubiquitous and in addition to that “epicene”, a French word describing word which can have double gender, and which has many applications in cosmetics, or licorice. By a curious coincidence, another publication in the same month take again this theme. All or almost everything is said in these tweaks. I would just like to complete some uses in cosmetics to be as precise as possible.
On the anti-inflammatory aspect, the training of pharmacists of the speaker’s lead to the fact that they speak about “anti-inflammatory” effect whereas in cosmetics, we consider rather than calming and soothing actions are more appropriate, which is more in line with the current verbatim.
Its use in anti-spots products is also quite common. Although it has no activity directly on melanogenesis, its soothing and anti-irritant action is a useful complement to the main action by acting on reactional hyperpigmentation. Its interest in sunscreen products comes from this fact. It is also given antioxidant properties. Due to this wide range of properties, its presence is effective in many forms of cosmetics products (Cosmetikwatch research 2018):
Cream : AQUA, ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, METHYLPROPANEDIOL, METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL [NANO], DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, GLYCERIN, NYLON-12, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE, TALC, ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, DIMETHICONE, SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE, APHLOIA THEIFORMIS LEAF EXTRACT, GLYCERYL STEARATE SE, HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER, DECYL GLUCOSIDE, PHENOXYETHANOL, POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE, MICA, PARFUM, XANTHAN GUM, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, TETRASODIUM EDTA, HYDROLYZED LUPINE PROTEIN, ALLANTOIN, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, POLYSORBATE 60, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT, BHT, TOCOPHEROL, CI 77891
Serum: AQUA, METHYLPROPANEDIOL, ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH, GLYCERIN, ALCOHOL, DIMETHICONE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE, APHLOIA THEIFORMIS LEAF EXTRACT, HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER, PHENOXYETHANOL, TRISILOXANE, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, PARFUM, ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE, ACRYLATES/VINYL ISODECANOATE CROSSPOLYMER, XANTHAN GUM, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, HYDROLYZED LUPINE PROTEIN, ALLANTOIN, TETRASODIUM EDTA, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, POLYSORBATE 60, TOCOPHEROL
Biphasic Lotion: AQUA/WATER, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CYCLOMETHICONE, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, CITRUS JUNOS FRUIT EXTRACT, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT, PRUNUS PERSICA (PEACH) KERNEL EXTRACT, PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, CETEARETH-20, PANTHENOL, GLYCERIN, BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1, SODIUM HYALURONATE, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, LINALOOL, LIMONENE, CI 19140/YELLOW 5
Mask : AQUA (WATER/EAU), KAOLIN, GLYCERIN, ILLITE, MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, CETEARYL ISONONANOATE, STEARETH-2, STEARETH-21, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID, SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, PROPANEDIOL, CHLORPHENESIN, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE), XANTHAN GUM, LENS ESCULENTA (LENTIL) FRUIT EXTRACT, GLYCYRRHIZA INFLATA ROOT EXTRACT, O-CYMEN-5-OL, SALICYLOYL PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, ZINC LACTATE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, CITRIC ACID, OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA STEM EXTRACT, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, PHENOXYETHANOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, RHAMNOSE, GLUCOSE, GLUCURONIC ACID, DISODIUM PHOSPHATE
And even in very recent forms like Cushion: AQUA/WATER, DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, CI 77891/TITANIUM DIOXIDE, METHYL TRIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE, DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, LAURYL PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE, GLYCERIN, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, MICA, CAPRYLYL METHICONE, TRISILOXANE, PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, PANAX GINSENG ROOT EXTRACT, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT, DIOSCOREA VILLOSA (WILD YAM) ROOT EXTRACT, KIGELIA AFRICANA FRUIT EXTRACT, EQUISETUM GIGANTEUM EXTRACT, LAUROYL LYSINE, MAGNESIUM SULFATE, DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, ACRYLATES/STEARYL ACRYLATE/DIMETHICONE METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, PHENOXYETHANOL, STEARIC ACID, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, ALUMINA, DISODIUM EDTA, TOCOPHEROL, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, HEXYL CINNAMAL, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, LINALOOL, CITRONELLOL, GERANIOL, EUGENOL, LIMONENE, CINNAMYL ALCOHOL, CI 77492/IRON OXIDES, CI 77491/IRON OXIDES, CI 77499/IRON OXIDES
Do not forget also its use as sweetener in some preparations, mainly for the lips lipstick and gloss, when we have to cover an unpleasant taste. The dosages are then very low and cortisone-mimetic properties are no longer relevant.
In order to cover completely this issue, note that this substance is also found on the catalog of ingredient suppliers or people who make DIY (do it yourself) and that some consider it as “organic”.
Finally, and more anecdotally, it is found in soaps or products for the shower and bath in which we can questioning what is its interest. It has been declined in several versions (Lotion with 3 liquorice!) and many other applications without much interest.
Many ingredient manufacturers offer this substance or specialties based on this substance: BASF, Indena, Lipoid Kosmetik, Nikkol, GfN-Selco, Narurex, BGG and others. It is available in different forms: acid, esters (Strearyl Glyccyreritinate), salts: Dipotassium and ammonium for the main ones.
It is even thanks to some databases for its safety, such as the EWG (EWG score = 1).
For more information: http://www.in-cosmetics.com/__novadocuments/11181
A beautiful substance that may still be of interest in new applications.
Thanks again to the contributors from the Nantes area.
Jean Claude LE JOLIFF