The news is in full swing and the themes are numerous. Among them, these is one that is starting to become dominant: the microbiome, through its protection, its restoration or what so ever. The proposals are starting to swarm. One of them specifically catched me: Givaudan’s Yogurtene Balance.
I don’t want to criticize or discuss this ingredient, which must do its job properly. Just a short comeback, not to say that it was better before, just to remember.
At this time, I was an young chemist, using my bottom funds to control raw materials in a great brand. Among the ingredients that I controlled, one had intrigued me a lot: Yogurt !!! I can’t not remember it. What was used it for? In the manufacture of one of the leading products of the brand: The Skin Dew. A light emulsion in which was added a large amount of Yogurt.
Yes, already! While the claims were not the same as now, but still !!!!!
This situation will last until the 70’s when the product will be reprocessed with an hydrolyzate of lactic ferments from …… .. Nancy!
Jean Claude LE JOLIFF
Do you remember which was the key ingredient in Valaze Pasteurized Face Cream (Helena Rubinstein) ?
We will revert to you soon
Please find here after some additional explanation.
Revert to me if any question.
Most of Rubinstein’s skin-care lines continued to be badged as Valaze. After the 1st WW, her first important addition was Valaze Pasteurized Facial Cream introduced in 1923. Described as an ideal cleansing, nourishing and massaging cream suitable for all ages. According to James Bennett, who had worked particularly this issue, Valaze Pasteurization Face cream has been a very successful product. Despite it’s hard to see how ‘pasteurisation’ could add any intrinsic benefits to a skin-care product and the process may have been employed simply to remove microbes and reduce spoilage, the same function it is used for in pasteurised milk. When analysed by the Consumer Institute of America in 1940 it was found to contain lanolin and a large amount of water*. In 1930, despite claims that the cream was suitable for all skin types, Rubinstein sold two versions: Pasteurized Face Cream for normal and oily skins; and Pasteurized Face Cream Special for dry skins. She also claimed to use Valaze Pasteurized Face Cream as a base in some of her lipsticks and rouges which suggests that they also contain lanolin.
• A good greasy cream is what you need. (1940). Consumers’ Digest. VII(4), October, 44-47.